Guide to Washing Raw Denim

Ask ten denim heads how to wash raw denim and you’ll get eleven answers. Some swear they’ll never wash their jeans at all. Others soak them after a month. So let’s settle it, at least for our jeans.

Our honest advice? Wait.

Wear your raw denim for at least six months before the first wash. That’s how a stiff new pair becomes a second skin, molding to your body and recording every bend, crease, and pocket of your life.

Here’s why it matters. Raw denim is dyed with indigo, which sits mostly on the surface of the yarn. As you wear your jeans, friction slowly chips that indigo away in the places you move most: behind the knees, across the lap, around your phone and wallet. Wash too early, and the dye fades evenly all over, softening the contrast before your fades have a chance to form. Wait, and you’ll get sharp, high-contrast fades that are uniquely yours.

Quick Fixes (No Full Wash Needed)

Spills
Spilled something? Blot it gently with a dry paper towel or napkin. Skip the soap and stain remover, which can lift indigo and leave a pale ring on an otherwise dark pair. Nobody wants that.

Odor
The most common reason people break and wash early. Instead, lightly mist your jeans with a fabric refresher, then hang them in a well-ventilated spot, ideally outdoors in the shade, for at least 24 hours. Fresh air does more than you’d think.

The First Real Wash

When the time comes (around six months, or whenever your jeans truly need it), here’s how to do it right.

1. Fill a bathtub with 3 to 4 inches of cool to lukewarm water.
2. Add a small amount of gentle detergent made for dark colors. Never use bleach or regular laundry detergent.
3. Turn your jeans inside out and lay them flat in the water. Weigh them down so they stay fully submerged.
4. Soak for 45 minutes.
5. Rinse thoroughly with cool water to remove all the soap.
6. Hang to dry naturally, out of direct sunlight.

Good to Know

Wash them alone. Indigo bleeds, especially in early washes. Keep your raw denim away from other clothes, and your white T-shirts will thank you.

Temperature equals shrinkage. The hotter the water, the more your jeans will shrink. Stick to cool or lukewarm unless you’re shrinking them on purpose.

Never use a dryer. No tumble dryers, no radiators, no crumpling them up while damp. Heat and stress can damage the fabric and ruin the fit, fades, and contrast you’ve worked so hard to build.

Raw denim rewards patience. Wear it hard, wash it rarely, and in a year you’ll own a pair that no one else on earth has.

Wear it. Fade it. Make it yours.